Five seconds to make a dream come true. The appeal of sport climbing

On the one hand, there are those five seconds. A fleeting fraction of time that decides the shortest event at the Olympics. And where the difference in timing between the athletes is often imperceptible, measured in thousandths of a second – less than the blink of an eye. For Matteo Zurloni, everything comes down to that moment: that 15-metre wall, an identical route for the opponent beside him, and a vertical race against the clock, starting afresh in Paris. On the other hand, there is the precision of Lucia Capovilla’s movements and her quest for fluidity of body and mind. These are the sensations she seeks to reach the top – and in Los Angeles, with the debut of Paralympic climbing at the Games, as high as possible.

Two thousandths of a second. A time so brief that it is almost impossible to imagine. And yet, it was precisely those two thousandths – that difference between 4.997 and 4.995 seconds – that changed the outcome of Paris 2024 for Matteo Zurloni, world champion in sport climbing: “When I think back to the Olympics, that’s the first image that springs to mind. In the end, though, I remember Paris with a smile because I was lucky enough to represent my sport in front of a huge audience. My discipline is decided by thousandths of a second – that’s part of the beauty of it.” His relationship with climbing began even before little Matteo could walk: “As a child, I used to spend my holidays in Campitello di Fassa, in Trentino. I was still too small, so I’d climb onto Dad’s shoulders and together we’d go for long walks amidst the beautiful Dolomites.” It was right there that his curiosity was sparked for what would become not only his sport, but the most important part of his life: “I was intrigued by these little coloured dots climbing the mountains. That’s where, you could say, that desire to give it a go was born; I’d also discovered that the mountains had been my grandfather’s world, as he’d served in the Alpine troops. I dedicated my Year 9 school project to him and his hikes.”

Over the years, rock climbing has given way to the wall, and above all to speed, so that I could devote myself entirely to speed climbing, the fastest discipline in climbing, which involves completing a route – the path to follow on the wall – in the shortest possible time: “I saw Ludovico Fissali at Tokyo 2021 and decided to commit myself fully and give my all to this sport. I wanted to experience those same emotions, both positive and negative.” Adrenaline and calm. Speed and precision. Sensations that are at times contrasting, but which characterise climbing, where the mind plays a fundamental role: “You can never have everything under control. It’s important to find mental focus during competitions, which is why I’m also being supported by a sports psychologist.” Today, he is the leading athlete of the Italian national team – and beyond. Despite being just 24 years old, Matteo has already won gold at the 2023 World Championships in Bern and at the recent Italian Championships, as well as silver at the 2024 European Championships, and he is the current European record holder. His goal now is California: “I think about it a lot. I’d like to try and make up for those two thousandths of a second and share this wonderful sport. I’m sure it will capture the hearts of the spectators.”

Los Angeles’ beaches will not only provide the backdrop for Olympic climbing. For the first time in history, the LA28 organising committee has also included a Paralympic sport in the Games – a new challenge for the Italian delegation, which will be supported by Allianz throughout its Olympic and Paralympic journey. Among them is Lucia Capovilla, a multiple world champion, born without her left forearm in 1993. As a child, she tried her hand at many sports before focusing on climbing: “It was climbing that chose me. Our relationship has evolved over time and has meant so many things to me; first and foremost, it has allowed me to make the most of every part of my body. Every day brings a new stimulus that allows me to find a sense of well-being within myself, both through movement and through self-discovery.” The early days weren’t exactly easy: “At first, when I was climbing, the skin around my elbow would hurt. My grandmother came up with the idea of sewing me a makeshift protector – a bit like the precursor to what I use today.” At the recent World Cup in Innsbruck, Lucia won her third career gold medal: “I’m filled with nothing but positive emotions; I’ve managed to rediscover the right feelings – that fluidity and serenity that only this sport can give me, where I can truly enjoy what I’m doing. I just focus on climbing and living in the moment.” The same feelings she’ll be trying to recapture in two years’ time with that new challenge. Hers, and not just hers.