Rome, the ringleaderAurelio Picca guides us through the lakes and country inns of the Colli Albani – a real day trip out of townThe cool air is in the Castelli. Just a few kilometres from the capital lies another Rome, made up of volcanic lakes, woods and lavishly laid tables. The writer Aurelio Picca explores the Colli Albani through history, local rivalries and new tavernsbyGianluca Roselli25 JUL 26