Aurelio Picca guides us through the lakes and country inns of the Colli Albani – a real day trip out of town

“I haven’t set foot in Ostia or Fregene for years. Goodness me… If I need a bit of a break from the heat, I head to the Castelli…” A friend had planted the idea in our heads years ago, and we always follow our friends’ advice. So, to escape Rome’s 40-degree heat, we set off for the Castelli. "Or rather, the Colli Albani – that would be the more correct term…", the writer Aurelio Picca immediately chides us. He lives in these parts and has often used these places as the setting for his novels.

We arrive at Lake Albano and spend a pleasant day at I Quadri, a restaurant and bar with its own beach that has been here since the 1980s. It is somewhat more basic than the newer beach clubs, but it is a genuine institution. We go for a swim – the water is cool and clean – eat some fish, sunbathe and admire the view. Up there, you can catch a glimpse of the Papal Palace at Castel Gandolfo, where Leo IV returned to spend his holidays following Francis’s absences. On the other side, somewhat more hidden away, lies Albano. “A day trip to the Castelli is the classic Roman outing, just like Ostia, but people here tend to come from southern Rome, because since they discovered Capalbio, those in northern Rome go there or to the Argentario. Or to Santa Marinella. Before, though, everyone used to come here – not just for the day, but for a proper holiday. And some have even chosen to come and live here…”, explains Aurelio Picca.

A trip to the Castelli is like a trip to Chiasso in reverse: here there’s no Switzerland, and the countryside envelops you. And to think that on Lake Albano, just like on the smaller Lake Nemi, there used to be no beaches at all; they’ve only appeared because the lake is receding and earth and sand have been brought in for tourism purposes. Now there’s a wide choice of beach resorts. The great thing is that, despite it being a busy weekend, they’re not too crowded: the clientele consists mainly of locals; there are very few Romans; and the sun loungers are arranged in neat rows on an elegant English-style lawn. There’s no sand, so you don’t get your feet dirty – another advantage that’s no small matter. And there’s no traffic. My thoughts turn to those poor souls stuck in traffic on the Aurelia, the Via del Mare or the Colombo as they make their exodus to Ostia and Fregene. Sweltering in the heat. And in Fregene, you can’t even go for a swim, with that brown-coloured water. At the lakes, on the other hand, it’s absolutely lovely. Not least because it’s cooler in the Alban Hills. “In Rocca di Papa, at the Campi di Annibale, we’re at an altitude of almost 900 metres. In Nemi, you need a woollen jumper in the evening. Marino is also very cool. When it’s over 30 degrees in Rome, it’s 10 degrees cooler here…”, says the writer.

But do the inhabitants of the Castelli consider themselves Roman? "Those from Albano, the closest to the city, do. The others couldn’t care less. And then there’s a strong sense of local pride amongst them: between Genzano and Marino, which are just 5 km apart, they speak different dialects. This rivalry weakens them politically: the municipalities of the Colli Albani should come together as a community, perhaps organise themselves into a consortium…”, observes Aurelio Picca. The rivalry has ancient origins, stemming from the families who once had their mansions here: the Colonna, the Farnese, the Chigi and the Borghese. In his novel "Il più grande criminale di Roma è stato amico mio", which recounts the exploits of Laudovino De Sanctis, there are scenes set at Benito al Bosco – a local institution – and at Vecchio Fico, a former coaching inn for horses on the road to Anagni. A few old trattorias are disappearing, but new ones are springing up. In Ariccia there is Sintesi, a Michelin-starred restaurant. In Marino there is Avus. In Frascati there is Dopolavoro Ricreativo and in Grottaferrata L’Oste della Bon’Ora. But the fraschette are holding their own too. Rome. Worthy of note is La Selvotta, a tavern where you eat on wooden benches in the woods, in the cool of the night beneath the stars.

There’s a bit of a queue, but it’s worth it. But aren’t the Castelli becoming a bit posh too? “I wouldn’t say so; a few traditional taverns are closing, but new places are opening, with a more contemporary feel, and that’s fine. We mustn’t remain stuck in the past. The important thing is that the new places are of high quality…”, adds Picca. The Castelli also feature in the stories of "Arsenale di Roma distrutta" and "Roma mia, non morirò più". And besides, if you fancy it, you can always escape to the seaside from here. It’s about forty minutes from Velletri to Nettuno. For those who simply can’t do without it.