Giorgia Meloni’s first appearance at Milan Fashion Week

Giorgia Meloni’s debut at Milan Fashion Week takes place on the evening of 23 September 2026, ten years after Matteo Renzi’s, who was also the first to point out on social media that, so as not to miss this occasion – and just as had happened to him (we cannot quite recall which other commitment he ended up missing, but there was controversy back then too) – “she did not attend the UN General Assembly”. Over these ten years, and despite the crisis, fashion has continued to be the major driving force behind Italy’s economy and its global image – a role it has played for almost half a century – consistently ranking as the second-largest item in the balance sheet. Yet it also remains the sector that people like to believe is produced by parthenogenesis rather than employing around a million people; and which, therefore, can – indeed, must – be viewed with condescension, except when it comes to queuing for hours as soon as it decides to give away designer bags or gadgets.

Ten years ago, Renzi told the cameras that “Italy is back” (he actually said it in English, or something along the lines of: “Italy is come back – this is the message”), adding that he was “not here to say ‘we will now invest’, but to acknowledge a reality that exists”: in fact, no other Italian prime minister had ever gone so far as to sit down with fashion entrepreneurs, who, moreover, were generating double-digit profits at the time and had no need for support with energy costs or to cope with crisis situations as they do today. For this reason, the tone of the speech ten years on is quite the opposite. Meloni emphasises that she felt it was “particularly right” to send a signal of her presence “at a time when things are not exactly easy for the sector, yet it continues to deliver excellent results. A tangible sign of presence and solidarity, not just through measures and resources, such as the 100 million to incentivise investment”.

Ten years ago, the event was always held at the Royal Palace, in the Hall of the Caryatids, rather than in the grand courtyard decorated in cream tones – from the carpet to the objectively splendid centrepieces: times have changed, and above all the atmosphere has changed; the ladies are largely wearing low-cut dresses – the modest Milanese neckline, that is; the Prime Minister is wearing a midnight-blue tuxedo and a blouse with a lace front by Ermanno Scervino. In 2016, Franca Sozzani – who was very close to Renzi and would pass away later that same year – presided over the event. Ten years on, at the head table, Prime Minister Meloni – who arrived with Prefect Claudio Sgaraglia – has Kering CEO Luca De Meo to her left, who chats to her intently throughout the dinner, and opposite her sit Anna Wintour, Gildo Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli. A little further along, Antoine Arnault, CEO of Loro Piana, was instead talking to Francesca Bellettini: the LVMH brand is in good health, whilst Gucci is facing a crucial test with Demna’s fashion show, due to be presented in a few hours’ time. At dessert, and even before the Cerea family make their rounds with the traditional selection of freshly filled cannoncini (by now, the paccheri and cannoncini prepared in the dining room have become a ritual – we’re starting to think it’s a bit of a superstition), Meloni rises and, flanked by Carlo Capasa, President of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, makes her way round the tables – a departure from protocol that raises a few eyebrows. She already knows many of those present; she was in Lesa, home to Herno, just a few days ago, and apparently proved herself to be quite well-informed about the production processes for outerwear. Luca Sburlati, president of Confindustria Moda, has plenty to say about energy costs. He smiles, looking at ease, whilst the waiters wait for her to leave before serving the sweets or, as they still say in Milan – where French hasn’t quite disappeared from everyday usage – the ‘friandises’.