Tinto Brass and a Netflix aperitif. A flying start to the Venice Film Festival

The 83rd Venice Film Festival has opened, but even before that, there was a pre-opening event. It has now become customary to screen a restored classic film in the Darsena theatre on the day ‘before the opening’: since we’re all here anyway – with screenings the following day starting at 9.00 am – we might as well do something, otherwise we’ll end up getting drunk on the very first evening. Venice 83 kicks off with "Col cuore in gola", a pop film set between Swinging London and the Nouvelle Vague by Tinto Brass, a Venetian director honoured on this occasion by his hometown, even though he is absent for health reasons.

The hall is packed, and it’s already the sort of setting reserved for grand occasions: there is the president of the Biennale, Pietrangelo Buttafuoco (who kisses the ladies’ hands like no one else in the world: his posture, his gesture, his body language – everything is perfect); there is the director, Alberto Barbera (greeted by applause from the audience that confirms his canonisation: an institutional figure but also beloved by the people; there is talk of Barbera as a successor to Mattarella); there is the film’s leading lady, Ewa Aulin, who—aside from having a name that sounds like an anti-inflammatory drug—is also Giuseppe Conte’s mother-in-law—of whom she says he “is a good father and a good partner to my daughter” (did he win the primaries against other suitors?) but she is keen to point out that with “Giuseppi” (as Trump put it) she doesn’t discuss politics – and I believe her; otherwise, just imagine what a nightmare those Christmas dinners would be with him at the table defending Putin…

However, the Lido is not solely about cinema: the parties have also been underway since 1 September. This is partly because most attendees remain here until Sunday (everyday life looms large and calls them back to their duties – some to Rome, others to Milan) so the parties are almost all concentrated in the first week. The Hotel Excelsior is buzzing with life: by the pool, Variety’s exclusive party is taking place, with security checks that make it look like a NATO summit. I attempt to slip in with elegance and nonchalance, but I risk being beaten up Diaz-school style. Still, I manage to take a peek: I don’t see any stars, just lucky but anonymous folk dressed up for the occasion in the hope of spotting a celebrity – though I fear they were left disappointed and went home with their tail between their legs. A far more welcoming event was the Netflix drinks reception to mark the release of Brass’s film (the platform, which will be showing Col cuore in gola from 15 September, contributed to the restoration): I introduce myself to the young ladies at the entrance who are checking names on the list and say quite candidly: ‘I haven’t been invited, but I’m a Netflix subscriber – could I still come in?’ They smiled and asked if I was with the woman they indicated, who happened to be on the list. I replied in the affirmative, the woman corroborated my statement, and I was admitted. Once inside, guests were served risotto, profiteroles and fruit platters—evidently a tangible outcome of subscribers’ fees. The party is being held on level -1 of the Excelsior, the beach level; but inside it is unbearably hot, creating the classic scene of these Venetian parties: well-dressed people, all sweating, with make-up running or ties that need wringing out. Netflix is handing out fans (I keep saying we should have invested in those, rather than in cryptocurrencies: we’d be rich by now!) and providing mosquito repellent sprays: in Veneto, the rate of West Nile virus-positive insects is extremely high, and the province with the highest prevalence is none other than Venice; all we need now is to get bitten and the Lido will turn into a lazaretto, with the red carpet serving as an emergency corridor and the Sala Grande as an intensive care unit. It would make for a fine dystopian film, perfect for next year’s opening ceremony, with Piefrancesco Favino in the role of the killer mosquito.