A fictional Viterbo. In his new book, Filippo Rossi explains why the City of the Popes is failing to take off. Politics plays a part.

A cry of pain, but also a glimmer of hope. We are talking about Viterbo, a medieval city with one of Italy’s most beautiful historic centres, which has the potential to be one of the best places to live but, in reality, is not. Because it seems to be in limbo, paralysed, unable to take a qualitative leap forward. Filippo Rossi, a journalist and writer who has lived in the City of the Popes since he was a boy, explores this in his book "Pensare la città. Viterbo immaginaria, leggere il futuro" (Rubbettino), which has recently hit the bookshops. The title echoes that of Rossi’s hugely successful book "Fascisti immaginari", co-written with Luciano Lanna. Here, however, the focus is on his adopted city, Viterbo, and why it fails to take flight, though the reflection could equally apply to other provincial towns. Precisely, why? “The blame lies first and foremost with politics, which has abdicated its role, failing to move beyond the day-to-day grind of managing the present, without ever looking up and setting out a vision,” argues Rossi. “The people of Viterbo have an underlying shyness, a reluctance to take action or even just to make their presence felt, which, whilst noble in some respects, is a hindrance in others. If we then add that the city is not wealthy, has no industrial middle class – but rather an agricultural middle class, conservative and fundamentally Christian Democrat – then the role of leadership would fall to politics. Yet it lacks both vision and courage. Politics ought to write our collective history and make the future something to look forward to; instead, it confines itself to maintaining the status quo and electoral survival,” observes the journalist. It was in Viterbo that he conceived the Caffeina cultural festival, which ran for 14 years before closing in 2019.

The book describes how Viterbo’s assets – such as the thermal baths or the university – are disconnected from one another, like islands outside the city. But it also explains how, due to a reluctance to take decisions, the city has become disconnected from its surrounding area, almost abdicating its role as the provincial capital. And then there are the ‘gaps’: buildings or parts of the city that have been forgotten and left to decay, such as the former hospital or the building that once housed the Bank of Italy. Viterbo, incredible as it may seem, has no cinema. “In this way, we forgo a space for social gathering and withdraw from the debate on the present. If a film comes out that the whole of Europe is talking about, in Viterbo nobody mentions it…”, reflects Filippo Rossi. Because, as he explains in the book, in this age when everything – from grocery shopping to films to retail – can be done from home and in solitude, “it is precisely now that a city must offer its inhabitants spaces for socialising, for meeting and for community”. Social fabric, but also friendships. “Only in this way does a place become attractive not just to tourists, but also to those who live there or would like to live there. Remote working offers Viterbo a great opportunity: that of being chosen by young couples or professionals keen to live in a peaceful, people-friendly place. But to be attractive, we need to offer them something more than just beauty or meeting up at the pub in the evening…”, reasons Rossi.

Then, of course, there is Rome, which dominates the whole of Lazio, leaving the rest with mere crumbs. “But this must not be an excuse to give up on everything and curl up into a ball. Viterbo must rewrite its collective narrative, build an identity that makes it recognisable, and restore its currently tarnished image,” adds the journalist. The book cites the example of Lucca, which has built its own distinct identity around Lucca Comics. “Viterbo will be putting itself forward as a candidate for European Capital of Culture in 2033, and this could serve to set energies and strategies in motion. Building something beautiful can help restore a sense of pride that can act as a driving force for other things…”. There is, after all, a shining example: the Macchina di Santa Rosa, an event that the people of Viterbo organise to perfection. The book also reads like a political manifesto. Rossi, are you planning to stand for mayor? “No, that’s not my role. I’ve already stood twice, in 2013 and 2018, and garnered a fair amount of support, so I’ve had my turn. The book aims to spark a debate about the future in a city where there is no debate…”.