Crazy about newsstands. The success of street bars

Passing through Piazzale degli Eroi, especially from aperitif time onwards, it is impossible not to notice it. One part of the square is absolutely packed with young people. As the evening progresses, even more arrive – yet, remarkably, this does not descend into chaos. Partly because whilst many come, many also leave, in a sort of constant turnover. We are referring to Fischio, one of the city’s most popular kiosk bars. There are others as well, which we will examine later, but Fischio’s success is truly overwhelming: over the years, it has become a landmark and a meeting place for the under-40s. During the day, however, at breakfast and lunch times, one also observes older patrons. “The mix of young people and older folk, as well as locals and visitors from further afield, is exactly what we’ve been aiming for right from the start. I think the secret lies in the quality of what we offer and a relaxed, almost carefree atmosphere that makes people feel welcome. People come here to have a chat and enjoy themselves…”, explains Marco Folco, one of the three partners. The others are Simone and Luigi, all aged 37.

The three are from Montesacro and the idea came to them whilst frequenting another historic Roman newsstand: Ponte Tazio, in Piazza Sempione. “We used to go there as kids and at one point we said to ourselves: why don’t we open one of our own and fill it with everything we like…?”, says Marco. The opportunity arose in 2016 in a completely different area, at Piazzale degli Eroi. A busy thoroughfare, with plenty of traffic too – perhaps no one would have given it much of a chance – but thanks to a space at the back where the lads can spread out, Fischio has been a success. The neighbourhood is incidentally becoming increasingly lively, with other bars and venues, including those springing up inside the Mercato Trionfale. On the opposite side of the square, another of their projects, Becco, opened; for a couple of years it served highly original gourmet sandwiches, but is now on hold. They also run another kiosk, Soffio, which has been open for four years in Fregene, inside the La Baia resort.

But let’s get back to Fischio. Anyone who’s been there at least once will have noticed the unique feature of the canned cocktails. Spritz, Gin and Tonic, Moscow Mule, Cuba Libre and others – all in cans, in fact. “There isn’t much space for bottles inside the kiosk, so we came up with the idea of preparing the cocktails in advance and putting them in cans, so they’re already ready to go,” explains Marco. The concept is so original that major brands, such as Uniqlo and the Roma Europa Festival, have requested the canned cocktails for their events. Another feature of the venue is the natural wines sourced from small producers and wineries around the world. And then there’s the music, with a DJ livening up the morning hours over breakfast. Marco, a huge vinyl enthusiast, also enjoys taking to the decks.

Of course, the weather helps: spending time in the square chatting, without necessarily having to stay indoors, has always been a staple of Roman youngsters’ evenings out. This perhaps explains the success of Fischio and other kiosks that have sprung up in the city in recent years. One of the most original is Tram Depot, in Via Marmorata, opposite Testaccio, with its kiosk shaped like an old tram, specialising in coffee and snacks. Not too far away, near the Piramide, is Mostro, a contemporary bar serving wines, cocktails and Venetian-style tramezzini (smaller than the Roman ones, but more generously filled). Amidst the greenery in the San Paolo area, two brothers, Pietro and Mario Esposito, have opened Al Chiosco, which is very popular for its Social Spritz, live concerts and themed evenings. In the Monteverde Nuovo area, Largo Ravizza hosts the Totem Garden Bar, where patrons can enjoy an aperitif accompanied by pinsa. Also worthy of mention is the Lemoncocco kiosk in Piazza Buenos Aires, a popular stop for residents of northern Rome. And, of course, the one on Ponte Tazio – a true institution in Montesacro, as mentioned earlier. There are also those inside the parks, such as Caffè Nemorense, although these are only open during the day. The kiosks’ licences are held by Rome City Council, which awards them through tenders; those who win the tenders then pay a fee for the use of public land.